So you want to be Boba Fett. The first step is to extensively research the various types of armors and builders. There are many opinions about which is the “best.” This is a topic of debate and beyond the scope of this article. However, I will say choose the armor that is going to suit your needs and that YOU like the best, after all, it is your armor.

Once you select your armor, you can begin the process of building and painting. This entry will mainly focus on prepping and painting the armor in Empire Strikes Back (ESB) colors.

Let me add, that many consider Boba’s armor the most difficult to paint due to the fine detail and the various colors used. TAKE YOUR TIME. You are going to invest ALOT of money into this costume and rushing it will not yield the results you hope to obtain.

There are various opinions about paint colors and methods. Some people use Krylon spray cans and others use Floquil/Pollyscale paints (airbrushed). This article will focus on the airbrush methods. The colors needed for Boba’s armor are as follows and a extremely close to the colors used in the movie. This information is courtesy of SpideyFett and these are colors you will see in the pics below.

When you receive your armor, be sure to cut off the flash (the extra plastic around the edges) and sand the sides of the armor smooth. I used a Dremel tool to cut the flash off my armor. Also, using a fine grit sand paper (600), sand the armor where you will be applying the primer to ensure a good adhesion. Here is what the armor will look like when cut and sanded.

The base of the armor is painted in Krylon Gray Primer, which is then wet sanded (e.g. you wet the sandpaper- 1500 grit) and begin sanding. This process leaves the primer very smooth. The second coat is Krylon Metallic Silver. NOTE: be sure to let the silver dry for at least 24 hours. When the silver is dry, I recommend washing the armor LIGHTLY with a gentle soap (e.g. dish washing liquid) so that the oils from the paint do not interact with the other paints and crack. I experienced this when I was building my armor and it is quite a pain.

(Primed)

(Krylon Silver)

After the silver has dried, the preferred method of weathering is layering. On this set of armor I used masking fluid (a liquid latex that after it has dried can be painted over and then pealed off). I have heard that some people us toothpaste or mustard. I prefer the masking fluid, which can be purchased in nearly any hobby shop.

On to the colors…

1.THE BASE COAT: US.MEDIUM GREEN (PollyScale acrylic)
Yes, the same color that is used for the ROTJ or SE version of the armor.
Reason I choose this color as the base was because allot of people tend to think there’s just one “magic” color applied and then from there you go straight to weathering, when really there’s a ton of Misting involved…which ends up changing the over all color hue completely. And US Medium Green has a good base hue.

2. Next color applied: To create the dark greenish gray tones, I MISTED DUNKELGRUN RLM 82 (Model Master enamel), I think this is what Jango’s Kid and a few others recommend..GREAT COLOR….but I’ve seen this used as a Base color, IMO that is not correct… I use it to create tones only.

3. Third color applied: To create the highlights in the armor, misted…….here it comes……………………..PANZER OLIVE GREEN (Polly Scale acrylic), same color used on the helmet. Sometimes I use this color and mix a touch of Cobalt Blue to add that teal tone….cough cough, hint hint….

4. Forth color applied: to create the deeper/ darker tones, I mist GRIMY BLACK (Polly Scale acrylic)….looks dark gray….and I normally mist this over the same areas that I misted the Dunkelgrun Rlm 82…

5. Final color : This is just an accent color, a very lightly misted WASH in certain areas.. FRENCH EARTH BROWN (Polly Scale acrylic)……

6. Yellow scratches that will be added: Yellow Zinc Chromite

7. Chest Diamond: Yes it is a DIFFERENT color than the armor on ESB…. I used CNW GREEN (Polly Scale)

All these colors can be found at http://www.testors.com

1) Base Coat US Med. Green (in this image the armor weathering has already been masked off)

2) Additional weathering added using the colors stated above.

3) Here the masking fluid has been removed to reveal the underlying Krylon silver

4) Next, the yellow zinc chromate is hand-painted around the scratches. I used a very fine paint brush and using good reference photos reproduced the weathering.

5) Next, the armor was gently rubbed with 0000 (very fine) steel wool. This process smooths the paint and allows for the decals (vinyl) to be added and to adhere well to the armor. Also, you will notice in the photos below there is a black  ”splatter.”  The color I used for this was the grimy black described above. In order to achieve this effect, I cover the parts of the armor I did not want splattered with paper towel, then adding paint to a fine brush, approximately one inch from the armor and “flicked” it with my finger. I think was the most stressful part of the paint job.

6) The same painting processes were used to complete the cod piece, neck, and kidney plate.

7) The next part of the project to tackle were the shoulder bells. The ESB Fett shoulder bells are different colors, where as the ROTJ should bells are the same color. Just as the rest of the armor, there is a coast of Krylon Gray primer and Krylon Silver. The areas of battle damage are masked off using masking fluid. Again, do not rush and allow the masking fluid to dry at least several hours.  The colors used for the shoulders on the ESB Fett are:

a) Right Shoulder

The base is UP ARMOR YELLOW, MIST of MILW ROAD ORANGE and misted with grimy black.

b) Left Shoulder

The base is UP ARMOR YELLOW, MIST YELLOW ZINC CHROMATE, again misted with grimy black.

The above information is courtesy of SpideyFett and his research, as well as the collective efforts of The Dented Helmet (TDH) members.

Notice the decal on the above image was added prior to removal of the masking. This was done so that the decal could be weathered without impacting the underlying silver coat. On a side note, the ESB mythosaur skull is distinctly different from the ROTJ mythosaur skull (e.g. the tusks are not attached to the skull in the ROTJ version).

Next, the masking fluid is removed.

Here is a photo of the armor and bells together.

The armor is attached to the flak vest via heavy duty snaps purchased from tandy leather factory. Indeed, they are the best snaps available.

Finally, completed pics of the costume.

I hope this was helpful. Any questions or comments can be directed to psydaz@hotmail.com

Following the steps in part 1,  the results at this stage should be,
well… an ugly mess.      Don’t fret.   This is where the fun begins…

Generally speaking,  I like to prime right over the raw, untouched
bondo and gap sealer before I sand.  Personal preference I guess.

If you want to do some additional Bondo work, glazing putty and sanding,
before primer, go right ahead.  It’s YOUR helmet.  

Here is the helmet after a coat of primer. Yes, I primed over the visor,
as it’s junk anyways and will be replaced with a MUCH darker material in part 3.

Here’s the helmet after some initial sanding.
Why I prefer to prime over the raw Bondo is to help see the “contrast”
between the primer, Bondo and undersurface.

Obviously, the white spots are low spots, whereas the primer is “middle”
and the pink is the bondo high spots.

For those new to surface prep, you want to sand down the high areas without
digging too much into the lower areas.

Since you are using anything from 40 to 100 grit to sand down the bondo,
it’s easy to tear into the plastic and mess things up quickly.
If you do gouge a chunk of plastic out, it’s not a huge problem.
You can mix up some Bondo, or if it’s a really bad chunk,
mix some plastic shavings in with some plastic weld and apply to the spot.

When you are done sanding, you should see smooth transitions from your surface
to the bondo. It’s okay to run your hand over the surface a few times.
Since you used a very rough grit to knock down the primer, you’ll want to
move up a few stages and get the heavy scratches out.
If you started with 40-60 grit, move up to 100/120, then 180/220, then 320.
If you started with 100/120, move up to 180/220, then 320.

If you want, you could sand with 400, but you’ll be wet-sanding with 400 soon anyways.

As you sand, you may want to, from time to time,
clean the surface with a tack rag and apply a fresh coat of primer.
Be careful not to apply too many coats of primer.
Wait about an hour after applying primer before sanding, no matter what the can says.

At this stage, between sandings you really only want to be applying a light
“dust coat”, otherwise you’ll develop problems later on from too many coats of primer.
After a few coats of primer, you may want to wet-sand the primer with 400 grit
sandpaper, and then wet-sand with 600 grit in order to start
smoothing things out for the color coat.
Personal Preference, as some wait to wet-sand after the first coat of the color.

In part 3 we’ll do final surface prep, color coat and weathering.

One of the most essential items in the prop-building arsenal is a Vacuum-Form Table.
There are many plans, howto’s and blogs on the internet showing the
general overview of constuction, but “step-by-step” instuctions can be hard to find.

This table is based loosely on information from TK-560,
however this guide fills in the gaps in an easy to follow, step-by step guide.

Let’s start with the “work” table itself.  The materials you need are:

2 pieces of 24″x48″ 3/4″ thickness MDF

1 piece of 2×4x96″ Lumber

16ft of 1″x1″ steel tubing. or…

16ft of 1×1 wood stock, several 3/4″ wood screws and several angle braces

1 box of 2″ wood screws

1 box of 3″ wood screws

2 pieces of 2×4x120″ Lumber

1 piece of 1×4x120″ Lumber

1 1″ plumbing floor flange

several tubes of construction grade liquid nails

several tubes of ge silicone (clear or white, doesn’t matter)

(optional) 24×24 piece of thin sheet metal

(optional) 6 adjustable furniture feet

If you buy the wood at Home Depot or Lowe’s usually you can have it cut for free.
Have each of the pieces of MDF cut to 24″ x 24″
Have the 2×4x96 cut into 4 24″ pieces.
Have the 1×4x120 cut into two 24″ pieces and two 26″ pieces
Have the 2×4x120’s cut into 6 40″ pieces. (lower if you are short, 30-36″)
If you go with a 36″ height, you can use 3 2×4x84’s to have less waste.
If you go with a 30″ height, you can use 1 2×4x120 and 1 2×4x72 to have less waste.

First step to assemble the table.
Take two of the 24″ pieces of 2×4 and one of the pieces of MDF.
Run a “healthy” bead of liquid nails along one of the 2×4’s, then set the MDF on top of both 2×4’s.

Take a 3/16″ drill and drill 8 holes, evenly spaced along the side,
trying to be as close to the center of the 2×4 as possible.
Then take a 3/8″ drill bit and CAREFULLY drill down about 1/16 in to allow the screws to counter-sink.
Working from the center, screw in the wood screws in an alternating pattern,
working outward. (center, left, right, left right, etc)
You’ll see some of the liquid nails ooze out.

After you are done with the wood screws, simply spead the excess over the gap.

Repeat for the opposite side.
Tip onto the side, and take one of the other 2×4x24 pieces and
place on top of the sides of the two 2×4’s already attached to the MDF.
take a pencil and run along the inside of the 2×4 as shown.

Cut on the “outside” of the pencil line so the board is slightly larger than the measurement.
This needs to be a VERY tight fit, otherwise it will leak vacuum.
Once you have both 2×4’s cut, run a “healthy” bead of liquid nails along
the MDF and the sides of the two 2×4’s already mounted.

You may have to gently tap in the board with a hammer to ensure a snug fit.
Once again, some of the liquid nails will ooze out of the joint.
Simply spread the ooze over the joint.
Repeat the pilot/counter sink drilling and screw in 6 wood screws,
again working in an alternating pattern.
By this point you should be used to liquid nails oozing all over.
Once you have all four pieces of 2×4 secured, go ahead and wait for the liquid nails to cure.

Flip the assembly over and run a “healthy” bead of liquid nails along the edges of the 2×4’s
then place one of the other pieces of 24×24 MDF on top of the 2×4’s.
Have a helper assist you with keeping the MDF squared to ther 2×4’s
and drill the pilot holes and counter sink holes.
When screwing in the wood screws, work in a “star pattern” starting in one corner,
then moving on to the oppposite, etc.
Once again, smooth over the oozed out liquid nails. then wait for this stage to dry as well.

While you are waiting, take a piece of the 24×24 MDF, a pencil, and a piece of scrap 2×4.
Place a 2×4 on the corner and mark around with a pencil.

Do this for each corner, then cut with a hand saw or radial saw, etc.
Once the box has dried, we’ll attach the legs, braces and bottom plate.
Pick which side of the box you want to be the top, and flip that side onto the ground.
mark pencil lines from each corner, making a center mark.
Drill a 1/4″ hole at this center point, then using a 1″ spade bit, drill a 1″ hole in the center.

Place the 1″ floor flange aligned with the hole and drill pilot holes for the wood screws.
Also pencil the outline of the flange at this time.
Before screwing on the flange, put a good amount of liquid nails inside the pencil circle.

Next, Have a helper hold one of the 2×4x40’s straight and level and make your pilot holes for the wood screws. Put a generous layer of liquid nails over the mating surfaces, then screw together.
On one side you’ll only want the 2×4x40 to overlap the box by half it’s width.
Make sure the clean the excess liquid nails from the resulting corner.

After all legs are assembled, flip the table onto the legs.
Take a measuring tape and measure 5 inches up each leg and make a pencil mark parallel to the ground.
Have your helper assist you with holding one of the 1×4x24 pieces against two of the legs,
making sure the 1×4 is level. Align the top of the 1×4 with the pencil mark
Drill pilot holes, and if desired, run a line of liquid nails along the mating surfaces before screwing in the wood screws. Repeat for all four sides.

place liquid nails or wood glue along the top surface of the 1×4’s and place the notched 3/4″ MDF on top of the 1×4’s.

TADA! Looks like a table at this point.

Here is a shot of a quick “test” fit of the vaccum surface.

Part Two will highlight the assembly of the heater box.

For $30 the Hasbro Voice-Effects Clone Helmet is pretty nice for kids and semi-adults alike.

However, all compliments aside there are a few issues that keep this helmet from being even close to a troopable helmet.

For starters, the helmet is QUITE flimsy (what do you expect for $30?),
and the snap together assembly doesn’t do too good of a job sealing gaps,
let alone hold the helmet together.

As if these isssues weren’t enough, the visor is HUGE!
Probably for “safety” reasons, but I digress. Here is the helmet in all it’s splendor:

The overall dimensions and style are very close to any “costume quality” helmet,
but it’s the details (or lack thereof) that make this project quite fun.

For starters,   the helmet needs disassembled completely.  Remove every screw,
take lots of notes and pictures so you know what goes where upon reassembly.

Next step is to measure the visor area so as to determine how much to “block out”

Using the masking tape as a guide and a ruler or tape measure,
draw out the “new” visor area,  OR the “new” cheek area.

It’s best to pick one side, then after you get that side perfected,
flip it over and use it as a template for the other side.
It’s not 1976! Symmetry is GOOD…

This is an excellent material to use for the cheek template:

About a dollar at your favorite auto parts store.
Generally I have a few dozen laying around the house for various projects.
Here is the template drawn out.  Included is a tape measure for scale.

Cut this out carefully, then clean it up as needed.
The result will be your “master” template.
Flip it over onto your plastic sheet,  and trace/cut it out.
You’ll want to put both templates back to back and trim so each piece
is exactly like one another.
Once you have your templates,  adhere them to the helmet using CA glue.
NOTE: CA Glue does NOT stick to the type of plastic used very well, so handle the cheek area with care for now.
Trust me… using CA glue is FINE at this step.

Now,  grab your can of Bondo from the fridge. (You do store your Bondo in the fridge, right?)
From the back side of the visor, carefully lay up Bondo against the plastic.
If you want some extra working time, you can mix the Bondo with about 2/3
the recommended hardener.  Storing Bondo in the fridge helps too.

You can use the excess Bondo to seal up some of the gaps/vents.
Place masking tape on the inside of the helmet so there is something to hold the Bondo.

Now, assemble the helmet (You did take notes and disassembly pics right?)
While assembling, you’ll want to use LIBERAL amounts of this adhesive:
Make sure to use plenty of the glue in the gaps/seams on the top of the helmet.

WARNING: This stuff is NASTY.   Do not use inside your house.
Make sure you use the adhesive outside or in a well-ventilated area.
Your helmet should look something like this:

Now, you can carefully remove the plastic from the cheeks.
If you did your Bondo well, it should look something like this:

If not,  don’t sweat it,  more Bondo will be going onto the helmet
to smooth up the helmet anyways…
As a precaution, mix up some of the plastic weld,
and seal up the gap between the top of the cheek and the lower edge of Bondo.

Coming Soon: Part Two of Three:  Surface prep and primer.

Now, most people say that I go overboard with my weathering techniques. So here’s a small journey down weathering lane.

But first here are the objects you’ll need:

- Krylon Tan, & brown cammo spray paint

- several green scotch-brite pads

-120 grit sand paper

my original GT/FX suit. out of the box.

I’m on the right.

Now, i added a Space Pack and some accessories, like a pauldron to the kit.

My Second Event in NYC, i decided after being clean for several troops around my own town to add some black weathering to the armor.

Didn’t really like that, so i cleaned it up. But over the years, its just gotten weathered on its own.

Than at some point i deceided that i need to look dirty. The actual weathering had come off over the years. But took it a bit far. I think you’ll agree.

I got some help at the Rose Parade from TD-0013, TK-2053, and several Italians and one Austrian Sandtrooper.

This was the final result.

I’ve had this ANH kit sitting around from Hong Kong since 2002, finally put it together and started weathering the helmet.

And the other night i finally finished the armor for the same helmet. As you will see it fits much tighter than the GT/FX suit i had.

Took the weathering cans out and went at it again. Hopefully not as bad as last time.

After a first try, i decided to start again.

What I did was spray the lower parts of the armor, or rather from a lower angle with both colors and later using spirit gum (paint thinner) to wipe off the access paint i didnt want.

Lower armor

Mid section